Or maybe I'll get the OEM style one and put louvers over it myself. I think I will get the VIS V line lid, as that has bigger venting holes that are louvered to prevent water from dripping onto the exhaust pipes. The vents in the engine lid are primarily useful for venting heat while stationary, as there is a drip tray blocking most of the would-be airflow. The car I am eyeing has a 2ZZ swap not using the stock intake tube, which should free up some of the flow of air from the driver side intake to the vents. The MR2 Spyder has two large side intakes feeding the engine bay directly, allowing venting out the top of the engine lid and through a hole in the bumper, as well as underneath the car (which is an aero mess at the rear). The side intakes feed the engine, and a little bit of cooling air perhaps, but they only flow a minimal amount of air. The Boxster simply has its engine hanging out underneath, and the heat dissipates from under the car. This means the rear deck louvers are for radiant heat release after shutdown. I suspect that the MR-2 is like the Boxster in that the side intakes feed the engine oxygen. If I can get half the noise reduction going from the MR2 to the FR-S, I would be ecstatic. It's pretty funny because when I got my FR-S, I was shocked by how quiet and comfortable it was on the freeway, while everyone on ft86club likes to complain about road noise, wind noise, and a harsh ride. Adding a rear window and sealing the door windows to the top is going to be impossible, so the wind will be roaring in my ears as I drive. However a big reason I hated my old MR2 Spyder is the tremendous wind noise from the soft top which made my ears ring, and I really want a hard top so it is more civilized. I'm eyeing a car with a roll bar installed, so I can definitely make a "bikini top" like thisĪnd add a frame to keep it sturdier. MR2 Spyder tops start at 2k+, which opens up the custom work door. Totally worth it, I would work with that and try to optimize it from there. A Miata OEM style top can be had for 1000 bucks. An OEM top is better with its glass window, but they're also 3000 dollars and I have a feeling I can get something very nice and custom made for that kind of money. I would hate to be constantly trying to buff it out. I completely forgot to mention that another reason the VIS tops are a big no-no is that there is a giant curved Lexan window at the back, and that's guaranteed to pick up lots of scratches.
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